If you came to Tailor too early, then you might have joined the critics in lambasting chef Sam Mason’s weird sweet dishes. Manchego cheesecake swirls? Mustard ice cream? In fact they're still there, just relegated to the dessert menu. Fortunately what’s happened is that the restaurant has gone beyond that and it’s fair to say there is no other menu at the moment like Tailor. The farmhouse room (it’s the old Veruka location) is nothing special but like an episode of champion Top Chef (minus the cameras), the dishes are amazingly experimental in a way that no one else dares to do. For example, a chorizo cured kampachi is done with a ribbon of sweet potato cream and crispy potato granola. Mixing yellowtail sashimi with a chip flavour? Strange but complex. Also worth trying is the octopus starter, served grilled with tarragon, pomelo and... coffee?! Swirl it all together and try it as one bite and isn't that interesting? Anyway, the point is that this is food on the edge of where cooking is today. Some dishes are a safe bet such as the very tasty root beer short ribs with vanilla infused carrots and celery root puree, but frankly most turn the most jaded diner into a foodie guinea pig. You will like some, others not so much, but nothing will be like the "comfortable" dishes every other spot is doing. P.s. the desserts are still, erm, weird. But ask for the rum banana with Sam’s pretzel ice cream. Trust us, that one is a winner.

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