Outstanding but not obsequious service is what makes El Pirata Detapas such a winner. The cozy, easy-going, popular tapas spot in Bayswater brings in couples, professional groups, old clusters of friends to the dark, rustic romantic upstairs and the warm, private downstairs to share modern interpretations of Spanish tapas. The chef's menu, which includes nine creations such as endive leaves with a Valdeon cheese foam dip, a tangy octopus carpaccio with capers, seared scallops, seafood black squid ink risotto, melt-in-your-mouth pork cheeks in a salty red wine sauce, and a two-chocolate dish dessert, is a steal at £25 per person. A second tasting menu at £21 features more widely-known Spanish flavours such as Iberian chorizo, Iberian salchichon, Serrano ham, and new potatoes in a mojo picon sauce. While those offerings are a slam dunk, a wider menu does also include such musts as three paella options and dessert choices such as crema Catalana and a traditonal Spanish rice pudding. Rounding out the menu are Spanish beers, cava, and a thoughtful selection of regional wines. But the experience would not be the experience without the expert staff who have the small touches on hand yet don't rush diners. No wonder this spot is pleasantly full every night and continues to be the place to go in the neighbourhood.

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