To describe this counterseats- only spot as a tapas bar does it a bit of injustice. What it is, is a delightful Spanish seafood spot with an emphasis on smaller offerings. Plates of cold meats such as cecina, lomo or Iberico chorizo go alongside nibbles such as almonds, caperberries, and ham croquetas. A bigger meal can be made from adding a tortilla (an omelettey mixture) such as the ham and spinach offering along with one or two of the seafood dishes; we loved an octopus with capers and a special of the day, which was a pollock in gazpacho garnish. Some dishes, however, are a miss. Take a pass on the garlic shrimp and forego the potato and watercress with chorizo, both oily and over-salted, and stick to the fresh fishes. Lunch for two is not the cheapest, coming in at well over £60 but we think once you get the hang of what you like, you could reduce it by just going for two staples and one special.

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