This Mayfair fish restaurant legend has been brought back by Caprice Holdings (they own the Ivy et al.) Though it will set you back a pretty penny (at least 60 quid a person if you don't drink much), it is worth it to see the beautiful room and lovely oyster bar. The dishes however are mixed; a John Dory with clams and mussels is quite good, as is the skate with periwinkles, but anything with a sauce arrives clunky and heavy. And despite a wide oyster selection, chockful of oysters we'd never heard of but wanted to try, they varied a lot in texture, taste and freshness. The winner, if you can stand the whole 'Britishness' of it as our waiter called it, is the Stargazey pie, a supposedly traditional (depending who you ask) Cornish concoction, complete with fish heads, namely herring, staring at you out of the pie crust. Perhaps the kind of place to torment your business colleague who claims to be a foodie.

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